Thai blues

Saturday morning found me, I set for the bus station around 5:30 am, with Krabi on my mind. Krabi is a province on the western coast of Thailand (SW of Surat). I wasn't sure where I wanted to be in the province, I just knew that I wanted islands and snorkel time.  The ticket, one way, was around 250 baht for a minibus from Surat Thani (Talad Kaset Bus Depot).  Tickets are available for purchase at the time of arrival. I was hoping for the 6am minibus, but I was informed there wasn't one. Therefore, I was put on the 7:00 am minibus. Just a bit on buses, the big AC megabuses are usually cheaper, but take longer.  The AC minibuses are faster but cost around 50 baht more.  At the last minute, just before leaving, several people jumped in the bus.  The driver actually added portable seats in the aisles of the bus.  I will just say that I am glad I wasn't sitting on one, no back rest or seat belt.  The ride was nice, I admired a lot of the scenery along the way.   

As the bus made it into the destination city, Krabi Town, handfuls of passenger would get off of the minibus.  The driver began to ask me where I was going, I said 'I  don't know.'  About fifteen minutes into the ride around Krabi Town, I jumped off the bus with a few other passengers.  I then walked to a travel depot, down an alley.  It was there that I started looking at a map to find a beach in good proximity to the Koh Phi Phi area.  I ended up booking a ticket for 100 baht to Ao Nang Beach.  I was told that I would be leaving in ten to fifteen minutes, about an hour later my ride came.  I then hopped in another minibus and took about a fifteen minute ride to ta general beach area.  As we drove passengers were mostly getting dropped off at their 'pre-booked' hotels.  I obviously didn't have a place for the night yet, honestly I do prefer it.

It didn't take me long to find a place to stay.  I walked around Ao Nang Beach briefly, then decided I wanted ditch my backpack.  I departed from the beach and found a steep street alley.  I walked up the narrow road and discovered several little guesthouses/hotels. I chose to check out PK Mansion on the end of the alley, simply because it was away from other buildings.  I wouldn't say there was anything special about it, looked similar to those near it.  I asked for the cheapest single room, the lady said 200 baht.  200 baht, is a really good deal from what I have seen and heard, especially for a lone traveler.  She walked me to the room to see it. I took a peak (after saying yes).  I'm not going to say the room looked like a dungeon, but there were no windows and it had a darken, sullen feel to it.  I have to say, it wasn't the room I was aiming for, even with the cheap price. Not to mention the room hadn't been cleaned yet. I asked about a room that would be a step up. And that's what I got, a 300 baht room, with a fan, balcony, mini-refrigerator, queen bed, tv, and a shower (cold shower, I discover that evening..). I was satisfied, more than I needed.  I was told that if I wanted I could pay extra to get internet in my room or have the AC unlocked, I didn't see either option as necessary.  There was however wifi in the lobby. I left my things to my room and headed out for some scouting around.

I wasn't sure which way to go, lots of things in each direction.  I am first going to add that Ao Nang coastal area is rather touristy, but I found people to be friendly and the tourists minding their own.  As I walked I discovered some unique Thai and ...Indian restaurants.  I knew what I was going to be eating the next couple of days.  After about an hour of walking around, away from the beach, I was naturally draw back towards the shore.  There is something about beautiful open water and giant tropical hills that always seem to keep me happy.  It was a sunny day with some clouds, beautiful.  I was surprised to see so few people around the beach.  I walked up the boardwalk towards and Indian restaurant, where I instantly made some friends.  I grabbed some garlic nan too accompany me back at the in the sand.
As I sat on the beach, I started think about what all I wanted to do.  I heard from a friend that Krabi Town had a great night market, which had me interested from the start.  So that left the next day, Sunday to think about, and island trip it is!  Though I actually wanted to stay on the islands, I had a limited amount of time.  I decided some island jumping might give me some perspective on the Andaman side.  Therefore, I checked around at the various tourist shops for a fun adventure at a descent price.  I ended up paying 1200 baht for myself (included: hotel pickup/drop off, food, snorkel gear, water, snacks).  The cost is typically 2000 baht during the high season.  I felt like there was no room for disappointment.

I spent much of my day hanging out by the water.  As I walked to one end of the beach I noticed a larger rock border, cutting into the giant hills.  I climbed over, amidst it all I began to wonder if it was a private area. I think this is where I take after my dad, I jumped over a stream and climbed up. I walk a little and found a little cove.  I decided to sit there for a while and watch the waves come crashing in.  It wasn't long and I noticed along the ledge below me, small crabs. Wouldn't you know it, it was snack time.  I watched a few of them eating algae off of the wet rock. It was pretty entertaining. Crabs remind me of mini robots. In rhythmic motion, the crabs began to left, right, left, right - shoveling microscopic bits of food in their mouths, one clawful (I think I just made up that word) after the other.  Every so often a wave would cut into the limestone just right and water would spray 15 feet up.  It was far more alarming for me than for the crabs.  They just kept eating.  I was amazing they could hold on to the ledge, a smooth wet surface area.

After hanging around the beach for most of the late afternoon, I got eager to check out the night market.  I love markets. My question of the evening.. 'how will I get there?'  There are certainly several options for getting to the market, but I wasn't about to get ripped off by the local taxis, songtows, or minibuses.  The cheapest option, not by much, is the city bus. Nobody will tell you this if you ask. If you learn a thing or two traveling, you know that if something sounds too expensive, it probably is.  I talked some Indian friends I made earlier, different ones this time, about transportation.  They assured me that the cheapest way was to take the bus, but to be warned that they have set times. The two Indian men stated that if you miss the bus, there's nothing else that leaves after 8pm, for Ao Nang.  I knew that I am not one to rush the market scene.  Therefore I knew my plan.

I had already asked about renting motorbikes a shop near my hotel, at the bottom of the alley.  The cost was 150 baht for 24 hours.  I handed them the money and my passport, and signed the necessary papers. No need for a license (even thought it's illegal).  I then looked over my shoulder to find two Thai men eager to help me pick out my bike. They asked me which one I wanted. I said, 'I need a good one.'  I am not sure why they even bothered to ask me, as they both walked up the steep incline of many diagonally parked bikes.  They both stood on opposite sides of one particular bike, a scooter rather. Yes, the one that stood out from all the rest. Yep, the only PINK bike in their possession.  They just looked at me smiling. It was like my dad had a hand in the selection. Naturally, I couldn't resist.  I thought to myself, at least no one I know will see me.  Next, the helmet.  I grabbed a black and grey one, to add a little masculinity to the my ridiculous ride.  The two men ran after me as I was trying to strap the helmet on.  They came running at me with what? Yes, the PINK helmet. Oh gosh, how did I miss that sitting on the top of the pile.  I put the helmet on, luckily my head was too big for it (ya, funny).  I went back to the gray-scale model. I have to say the men both had mild looks of disappointment about them.

I jumped on my Barbie get up, hit the throttle and realized how much I regretted taking the pink bike. I was a bit irritated, I'll admit it. Definitely a Barbie bike. Number one, it was on E. Number two, it was no comparison to mine in Surat. Oh well, I thought, it's part of the adventure right? Something I would not normally choose.  I hit up the nearest gas station, put in 50 baht despite the shop owner telling me I needed 100 baht.  100 baht can get me well over a week in Surat, so long as I don't get too crazy on my Sunday adventure rides down foreign roads. I hit the road around 5:30 and I knew exactly where I was going.. Umm, sort of.  I had a Wizard of Oz moment. I was Dorothy talking to Scarecrow. He literally pointed in two directions. Off I went.

The ride was amazing. I loved it. Seriously, if you are ever in SE Asia, you need the motorbike experience.  One of the beautiful things about traveling alone, is that you can stop whenever you want, go as slow as you want, or as fast you want.  The scenery was gorgeous and no picture could ever do the scape justice.  The air was maybe low 80s, cool in the wind.  Once I hit the valleys through the limestone mountains, the air was as cool as the mountain air I love back home.  There wasn't much traffic. It was like have the road to myself. 

I stopped several times just looking at the giant limestone formations, watching sunset creep in. I made it to Krabi town, but I soon got the impression that the market would be a little more difficult to find.  I wound around some curves and then stopped at an empty intersection on the outskirts.  I stared in three directions trying to decided which way would be best.  Just then a man on his motorbike with his two young sons yelled, "where you go?" I really dislike those words, but seeing as he had two kids on his bike, it was obvious he was a local wanting to help a stranger.  I did my best to communicate directions with him, but my Thai could not get me to the fine details beyond his said, lefts and rights.  He then motioned for me to follow him. I am going to say that I am grateful that the man found me.  He took me through random side roads, cuts, and bends, and before I knew it, I was before hundreds of Thais streaming the market scene. 
"Holy motorbikes and scooters, where will I park?"  I thanked the man and he and his boys smiled back at me.  I parked and carefully eyed the surroundings to make the find less confusing in  the later hours.

>> & now..the Krabi Market Night Market

 Music, artisans, food, and culture.

This may be one of my favorite Thai salads, kao yam. The flavors are what make it unique to any other. Are you wandering what flavor combinations tweek my buds. First off the word 'yam' means mix.  The salad base is none other than, rice.  But don't let this throw you off.  Ingredients may include:

Salad - shredded green mango, thinly sliced lemongrass, toasted coconut, sliced kaffir lime leaves, fresh chilies, sliced cucumbers, bean sprouts, cilantro, cut long beans, dried shrimp/nuts. Note that the salad components vary regionally.

Dressing - fresh lime juice, palm sugar/fresh pineapple juice, salt, sesame oil, soy sauce/shrimp paste, garlic. The dressing is one of my favorite parts. It's lightly sweetened, tangy, and a little spicy.

Rice - The streamed rice itself is traditionally colored to a nice cloudy blue, with the natural coloring of the pea butterfly flower.  Jasmine or long grain brown rice are often used. In addition the rice is usually at room temperature.

Pictured: 

Top: grilled bananas; Left: luuk chuup (fruit, vegetable, and animal shaped dessert). The dough is made from mung beans, coconut milk and sugar. Right: steamed quail eggs.

As I walked around the market, trying random tastes of foods, I decided that I wanted to capture a few of the common items I see in the Thai markets, as far as my traveling experiences from Northern to Southern Thailand. 

I walked through the market a few times, making sure I didn't miss somethings. There were so many venders.  As I was concluding my market walk I decided to go back to a stand that kept grabbing my attention. It was a man selling unique hand-made jewelery. He didn't have a lot of jewelry, but the ones he had were really neat.  I decided that I would ask him about his work. I found out that he and his wife make the jewelry together. Interesting enough, we small talked enough to discover we are both from Surat.  Long story short, I purchased a unique item from him.  The bracelet was pretty cool, made with Thai sweet pearls from Chonburi province.  He discounted my 100 baht without even asking. He then gave me his business card and told me that if I needed help navigating or help with anything to give him a call. I did snag directions home from him, didn't think I'd want to depart Krabi Town the same way I arrived. A nice guy, Chai.

Alright, off to find my bike. I'll save you my run-around, literally, I backtracked several times. My bike was not where I parked it. After 5 minutes of me scanning the street bikes, no pink. In fact the street where I parked my bike, at least 75 bikes..they were all gone. A little panic started to set in.  After one last scan, I realized someone had moved my bike. Wow, ok..moving on.

The way home wasn't too eventful, but I enjoyed it. I will say that it's very interesting riding in the night, the darkness disguising my pink. I felt a lot less like Barbie, driving in the dark. I felt like I was in a movie. This reminded me of my Thai friend Prom. Whenever he talks of scary movies, which is often, he always says.. 'See, she the blonde girl, she gonna die first.'  And, there I was alone, with two meek scooter beams, winding through Thai jungle roads when suddenly... seriously nothing happened. But I did pass some interesting 'clubs' in the middle of the jungle. I believe I made it back to Ao Nang with only one bug in my face, maybe a 23.8 minute ride at my daring speed. I then did some street walking. Then I set in a bit early for an 8am departure Sunday morning.

I woke up anticipating the day.  I was hoping for sunshine.  Since I was up early with sun with time on my hands, I decided that I would stay in the same hotel that evening so that I could leave my bag at the hotel.  In addition, I bought a bus ticket with a transfer from Krabi Town to Surat, for Monday afternoon (4pm, the latest departure time).  Soon enough a man walked up the alley of my hotel. I boarded the songtow, but since I was the last pickup I got to ride in the double-cabbed pickup vs the back.  I ended up sitting with two young Thai brothers, the one spoke English well.  He asked me lots of questions on the way to the pier.  The driver, who only spoke Thai, took advantage of the translating. The young Thai boy then started asking me questions for the driver's interest - strange questions. 

Upon arriving to the pier, we were sorted like cattle in the fall - no ear tags though. I got a green sticker slapped on me. After being corralled in a corner for some time, my eyes began to wonder. And there they stopped, on a young Thai gal. Her significant other was taking picture after picture of her. I have noticed this a lot in my travels. Thai women sure do like the camera, 5 minutes, later, 10 minutes later, still taking solo pictures.  Except I was apparently watching the scene too long. Her eyes met mine. Oops. She then looked at me. Then her boyfriend said, 'take picture?.' I thought, 'sure it would probably if they had at least one photo together on their trip.' I reached for the camera and then he said, "Ah, you."  His girlfriend then pulled me towards her, fluffed her hair and then put her arm around me as if we were best friends, to take a picture with her.  Always an interesting experience. I can't help but wonder where these photos end up. Are they a nice conversation piece when they go home?

Soon enough we boarded a speedboat. Truly the only way to head out to the islands with not-so-calm western waves. I sat in the very front of the boat, strategically placed in the corner.  We set out. There was lots of wave clipping going on, but honestly it wasn't too crazy nor uncomfortable for me. After about 45 minutes, I met my first island. It was love. I'll let the lens take it from here. 

Ladies and Gents, Bamboo Island

 Where blue has no limits. Addicting.

Great water. A rush of waves. 

The water may have been rough for snorkeling that day, but perfect for a swim and coral finds (& no I didn't take any). My friend Koi said she saw beautiful clown fish on Bamboo Island, so I still took my snorkel out just to see if I could see somethings, even though I was told by several people that there would be better snorkel areas later.

 Some beach to myself.

 Beautiful beach. I believe you can camp on this island.

 Sand, shells, coral, and waves.

 A sea turtle snapped me, just for (you)!

 Time for another island. 

 Some monkey business on the way.

Alright. I may have found myself in a recognizable area. Look familiar?

What movie was filmed here?

 Any guesses? Without Google..

 One fish, Two fish, Yellow fish, Blue fish.

 I think the fish were checking me out. Or maybe my delightfully white skin attracted them.

swimming, swimming, just keep swimming.

 Lunch on Phi Phi Don.

Drop Anchor.

 Seriously..

View from shore.

Caught by and anchor (seriously, I have the rope burn on my ankles to prove it).

Just felt this was an appropriate picture, to capture Thai Mother's Day. There may have been a handful or two, too many at on the island. I chose to think of it as a really good water park.

 

 Unprotected toes. And no floaties. Even the best parents can't cover everything.

A lonely cove.

 Care for some inside action..

Phi Phi Don - Beach Clip

The boat took us around a few coves into ideal snorkeling and swimming waters. Amazing. Nothing like it. Unbelievable. I don't have pictures of this area.. I literally jumped off the boat, first one in, last one out.  It's no wonder people travel from all over the world to dive around these islands. A Thai lady, a guide on the boat actually took advantage of the swimming and snorkeling. She swam and dove around identifying random things for me. The biggest find was a 'tiger clam' it was a giant clam from the floor. But my favorite was a large black urchin. It had 12" spikes coming off of it. It was really beautiful, you maybe need to see it to agree with me.  I cannot believe the fish I saw.  At one point I was just hovering over the water checking out the depths, watching fish swim around me as if I was a typical prop. Then all of the sudden there was a swarm of fish around me. It was as though I was in a confetti tornado of tropical, vibrant fish. 

After about an hour of open swim, we set out for a some beautiful open water nears a secluded cove. I remember looking into the water from the boat thinking, wow we are so far out it the water is so shallow. Someone asked how deep the water was. That's when I learned the water was 15 feet deep! I was thinking maybe 3 feet.  I couldn't believe the clarity, unbelievable. I could see everything in the water. This time I jumped off the boat without a snorkel and took advantage of the breathtaking water. I am certain that that moment.. was the closest I have found to paradise. And all I could think about, was how much I wanted to share it. A truly amazing final stop for the day. 

As time would have it, it was time to head back to the mainland. I enjoyed the ride back at least til half way in.  Then waves began to splash me. The clouds hid my sunshine. And yep, the rain. I was rather soaked upon arrival to the mainland - covered in goosebumps after 15 minutes in the rain. I was cold and very uncomfortable, waiting for the songtow to arrive. Worth it? Absolutely, I'd do it again!

I was dropped off at the base of my hill, I ran to my room rather fast. Hoping for a warm shower. That's when I discovered, cold water. It had to be done. It was a fast shower. The thought of finding some warm Indian food kept me going.

So, I will just add that I stared at the Indian menu for quite some time. I wanted to try everything. Since I was the only one in the restaurant, I figured there was no need to rush the decision.  I tend to ask most Indians what their favorite dish is, almost always the response is, butter chicken. Now I know why. The perfect blend of Indian spices in a warm creamy curry sauce, with possibly the best cooked chicken I've had. I went a little crazy and also ordered whole wheat roti (Indian bread). Cost, 300 baht (I believe I haven't spent this much on a meal while in Thailand). I didn't lick the plate, but it came close. This will be added to my 'recipes to make list.'

For the rest of the evening, I enjoyed some street walking in the rain. The next morning, Monday, I had some breakfast near the water.  I then spent my time walking around the many streets.  I noticed several tributes and decorations to honor the queen as it was her birthday, and Mother's Day.  And for lunch,
 
Chicken Masala with potato chapati (potato and a blend of Indian spices). Cost, 250 baht total. Another big lunch spending on my Thai budget. Yum, well worth the bite.
I spent the last of my afternoon at the beach, watching the waves, and walking the beach.

My last day in Ao Nang.

Ao Nang Beach Clip

 

By 4pm, waited for my transfer pickup to Krabi Town>Surat Thani.  The transfer bus brought me to a bus station.  I was told that the Surat bus would arrive around 5:30 or 6.  I was nearly the only one at the bus station, which was nothing more than a cement floor, tin roofed shelter.  I sat at a picnic table, was buses passes in and out.  Soon the place was filled with global backpackers, and some Thais. The rain came in.  We, waiting passengers soon discovered where all the neglected places were in the roof.  The rain was pounding and the air got cool real fast.  I sat there, writing some, and some time with my feel up laying on my backpack listening to the rain.  The bus arrived around 6:15, but this time it was a Megabus.  The ride was smooth. The were several Euro backpackers.  We arrived into Surat around 9:00.  The backpackers spoke no Thai and the Thais on the bus spoke no English. That was fun.  The backpackers were freaking out not knowing where to get off.  I believe most of them were planning to take the night boat to Samui. I was entertained, listening to the freak out about how they didn't understand the Thai. It just made me think about how the Thais deal with this everyday. All the crazy English accents coming at them with concerned faces.  Anyways I got off near the river, the final stop and walked home. I stopped at the 7Eleven for some peanuts and yogurt and made the journey home. The streets were quiet. A weekend well done.