Defined

-n 1journey 2culture 3sunrise
-adj 1adventurous 2curious 3free-spirit 4twenty-something
-v 1explore 2create 3love

Tuesday, May 28, 2013

papaya weekend

Lately the days seem to go by fast, both the work week and weekends. The rainy season is setting in.  It seems to rain around 4-4:30 pm daily.  It can make for a damp, splashy ride home from work. The rains are usually heavy with fairly strong winds.  The rain lasts around 15-50 minutes.  Softer rains often follow the initial bursts. I would say that we get precipitation 2-3 times per day.  The Andaman coast (west), sees more precip.  Once the rain slows, so dies the wind.  I find the storms to be refreshing, the air gets cooler and thunder just makes it fun.

Friday was the celebration of the birth and enlightenment of Buddha, 24 May, therefore a public holiday. It was a nice break to a busy work week. I was able to do some exploring around the city and also caught up with some friends and family.
Friday I did some cleaning, a market run, and a little catching up on projects, as it rained most of the afternoon and evening.  I bought some fresh fruit at the market to bring to a house warming party.  I decided on watermelon, guava, papaya, pomelo, mangos, and rose apples.  I also brought some monkey beans, which is similar to our peanuts in the US.  The only difference is that the legume is smaller in Thailand.  I bought them fresh off the coals from an elderly lady in the market, 20 baht per bag.

In the evening I met with my neighbor Prom (pictured on the far right) and his wife Ghuy for the evening for their house warming. They recently purchased a new house about 4 km from my place.  Ghuy picked me up and took me over.  It was an interesting location.  The road went from paved to clay/dirt to paved, dirt, etc. I was able to see that much more of the city.  I am amazed how little distance I need to go before I feel like I'm in the country. The scenery is so beautiful;  rivers, bridges, and lush green vegetation.


We arrived at the house, amidst the rain. The home was just built, and it is spectacular.  I was greeted by several of Prom's Thai friends, his mother and father, and his sister-in-law.  And it wouldn't be Thai-style without great Thai food and plenty of drinks. And, let's not forget on of the most important piece to any Thai get-together, karaoke! Yep, something about Asians and karaoke (every song sounds nearly the same as the one before it).  After my introductions I sat with Prom and some of his friends (who knew little to know English).  I was able to converse in broken phrases with them. As always I felt welcomed from the second I met them all.

As I sat, I noticed several plates already at the table, maybe 5 or so dishes, buckets of ice, and bottles of Johnny Walker (Thai's are all about Whisky, ice, and soda water for celebrations). I was told to help myself.  I tried a spoonful of a few of the dishes, I was told that more food was on the way.  I soon tried some new and amazing Thai food.  I got the impression that it made everyone around me happy and surprised that I was so willing to try the food.  Prom's friends kept spooning food on to my plate, as a new dish was presented to the table every five minutes.  So much food! This was the some really good and authentic Thai food.  One of my favorites was a fish dish, just behind the soup pot.  I was a large white fish with spices and lime on it.  It was a little tangy, spicy, and extremely tender - best of all no fishy taste. The soup in the center is tom yam, aka a tangy spicy soup with calamari. Two pictures above you will see white ball, know as fish balls, probably the only dish I didn't appreciate.  I would say the fish balls are a popular item here though, you see them everywhere, from street venders to the 7Eleven, to local restaurants.  In addition there were other great dishes with legumes, shrimp and cashews, or dishes with egg and leafy greens, and so many more.

Later in the evening I was officially introduced to Prom's parents. As Thai custom I wai'd them, as older individuals are highly respected.  Neither parent knew much English, I spoke what little Thai I could.
I learned later, in my conversation with Prom, that his dad served in Vietnam. Prom told me how his dad still has a hard time with the topic, but not all bad memories.  His dad also made a friend while serving, it just so happens that his friend was from Wisconsin. I guess they reunited years after their service, with the help of a translator.  Prom told me that his dad and other Thai soldiers would trade their guns and cigarettes to the American soldiers, for lighters. The night ended with karaoke and 3 out of 5 kegs of Leo beer (Thai beer) finished. My glass was never empty the entire night. I would take three sips and someone would see my glass as far from full.  I kept telling Prom that I was ok, but he said, "it's impolite in Thailand for guest to not have a full glass." So there you have it.  If you see the chair next to him with the pitcher, know that that pitcher was for me, so that he could see to it that my glass was always full.  As the night went on I could pick up a few words here and there.  I hear his friend say something about the farang and ice.  That's when I realized he was commenting on the fact that I didn't drink my beer with ice.  Thai's are well of the fact that us Westerners don't drink with ice in our beer.  Do you care to know the Thai rationale for ice in the beer? Prom has told me three times now, so I promise I wont lead you astray.  "In Thailand do you know that we have two seasons, not like in America." I just smiled at him. "In Thailand we have HOT and *@*&!^ HOT, so we drink our beer WITH ice."

On Saturday morning, I received a call from Chanphen (pronounced Shawn Penn, means full moon in Thai, as she was born on a full moon), wanted to see if I was still interested in a day in Chaiya.  I was all about this.  Chaiya is one of the oldest cities in Thailand, know for its temples and coastline, just north of Surat Thani.  I headed over to her places and we left in the late morning.  The drive was beautiful.  We took a scenic route, as Chanphen or P'Phen called it versus taking the main highway.  The winding roads took us along rice paddies, a shrimp farm, through rubber and palm plantations and over rivers. I enjoyed the drive, about 1 hour drive via car. Just 10 km from Chaiya, we stopped to see her nephews.  We ate ate a local restaurant, where her oldest nephew has his own furniture business.

The restaurant was perfect.  It was the typical roadside stop, great food included.   Roasters and a couple dogs ran around the restaurant.  There were a handful of locals there, also enjoying the food. P'Pen did the ordering for the 4 of us.  We sat and talked about travel, Thai and American stereotypes, and also about studying abroad.  The youngest nephew, with un-broken English asked me several questions about travel, as he plans to head to England for his PhD in Chinese history.  Soon enough the food made it our way.  We dined on a late afternoon lunch of fresh catfish, sticky rice, and som tam (green papaya salad). And let me tell you, it was very good.  I have never heard good things about catfish in the states, as far as it being a good eat.  However, in Thailand it is another story.  The fish had great flavor, included was an amazing sauce to dip it in.  There wasn't a lot of meat on the fish, but a little went far for me.  The papaya salad, is always a favorite of mine, spicy goodness.  And lets not forget the rice.  No Thai would dream of a day or meal without rice.










[Interesting tidbit: gin means to eat and kao means rice, the two words are inseparable in the Thai language. In phrasing it the two words are used to ask if you have eaten rice and to ask how you are. Clearly, any Thai that has gone without rice, can not be doing well.]

My thoughts on sticky rice, I like to dip my sticky rice in the som tam, like many Thais.  It's different that steamed white rice, it has a chewier taste and can be eaten with your hands, as the grains stick together, hence the name.  I do like it. This was a great meal to share among friends.


After eating we headed to Chiaya, to Wat Suan Mokkh, a temple.  The International Dharma Hermitage temple is known for it's 10 day Buddhist retreats.  P'Phen told me there were twp different places for people to go for meditation one side for Thai's and the other for foreigners.  I went her to the Thai side.  We mostly walked around and took in the setting.  The setting was beautiful, lots of trees, vegetation, and fresh air. We walked around the temples and saw some beautiful modern art, as the temple was built in the last 20 years.  As I walked around the temple, a monk sat on a ledge in the temple, talking with a dozen or so Thai's coming to hear his take.  He sat with in his gold garb, with a long thin branch across his lap.  The setting was peaceful, quiet and natural.  P'Phen sat and listened, all the preaching was obviously in Thai.  I sat some and also walked around taking in the setting and the paintings.



 
 Lotus, could fit family of 5

After the temple, we set out for some of the afternoon market. P'Phen got her afternoon coffee and I tried what I thought was going to be hot tea.  Along the way a Thai dessert caught my eye - though at the time I had no idea it was a dessert. The Kahnohm (dessert in Thai) looked much like a 50 lb bird nest, felt like the lining you put under your silverware tray so it doesn't slide around, and the taste was a rubber-like texture with a hint of sweet.  The lady behind the stall, offered me a piece to try.  Just let me know if any of you back home would like me to send you some edible cheese cloth, should ship well.  As for my tea, it was a sweetened hot tea.  The flavor was nice, but it was way too sweet in my opinion.  I believe condensed milk and raw sugar were among a few of the ingredients.  P'Phen and I sat there and visited, I sipped my red-brown color tea, still unsure of what kind of tea it was. 

As we sat and talked about Thai food and culture, Chanphen suggested I try some salapao, a steamed rice flour bun with either pork or custard in the center.  She told me that it came from Ranong, where they are known for some of best salapao in Thailand.  Ranong was were I stayed one night up in the mountains before I reached the jungle village.  Anyways, P'Phen tried the pork and egg and I had a sweetened one.  It wasn't bad, not sure I would go out of the way to get one, but it was nice.  I enjoyed it all.  

Around 5, we set out of Chaiya, after our short time there.  Along the highway I noticed a lot of roots and interesting wood just sitting out along a fence line.  I inquired about it, that was when P'Phen said, "oh would you like to stop?" I said sure. Soon I noticed beyond the fencing, was a large wooden building with lots of lumber and interesting trees along the driveway.  We stepped out and a man waved at P'Phen, "she said, I know him, we are good friends." I swear everyone knows her, a common occurance wherever she goes.  The man invited us in to what I thought was his business.  I couldn't stop looking around. The wood work I saw was like nothing I had ever seen before.  This was some of the largest whole-piece furniture I had ever seen.  I learned that all of the wood was native to Thailand, from all over the country.  Here I thought he was selling these large pieces, when actually he was collecting them.  These pieces were larger that King-size beds. Tables were about 20 feet in length, chairs were made from beautiful, giant stumps, and several giant dragon couches and benches that varied from 10-18 feet in length. The pictures I took don't do the art justice, just know that the pieces were amazing.  I cannot recall the name of the wood as it is a Thai name with interesting tones.  When I asked about the quality of wood, I was told that it is better than teak, and much firmer.  

As I sat and took in the several pieces, the three of us talked (P'Phen did the translating), the man repeated over and over that he wanted me to come again and that my family and friends are welcome.  The man smiled the whole time and asked me many questions about my education, my background, the types of wood in the US, and about how college education works in the US. He was really into the education questions, as his son is currently studying in Boston.  Let's just say that he is by far the wealthiest man I know in Thailand.  He has his own rubber plantation just down the road from his home and is paying for his child to get a good education.  He told me that he wanted me to come back so that I could visit with his son, as his son knows English very well.  I could tell that he was really proud of his son. Just before leaving, we toured what I would call a glorified shelter area.  It was cemented with center beams made of 1,000 year old trees.  You will see these in the pictures below.  The bark is removed from the perimeter of the tree, and the center is left to hold a building.  The man said he aspired to turn it into a restaurant. 

It's conversations, moments, and weekends like this that put many things into perspective. 


 House view from the road





 Beams made from 1000 year old trees

Thursday, May 23, 2013

Kaeng Massaman

I am loving me some Surat weekend. I spent my last perusing the market scene. I picked up a few odds and ends of ingredients that I felt may be valuable in my kitchen in the upcoming weeks and months.  I didn't find exactly all I wanted; a start nonetheless. It's a but a start to many great moments. Are you ready for this? ..My first cooking experience in my very own Thai kitchen. For those of you that know me, it's an exciting event. I invited Chanphen over for the festivity.

I have been cleaning all the posts, pans, floors, counters, and more. I will spare you the unpleasant details. What's important is that this step got me to the ultimate goal - Massaman curry at my table. I am going to guess many of you haven't had the chance to taste the magical wonderment of the Southern Thai curry (arguably it may have originated in the country's first capital near Bangkok, the city of Ayutthaya). Either way it is an amazing dish, commonly made with beef. However, it is also made with chicken, fish, duck or tofu. Traditionally it isn't made with pork, due to Muslim origins.


Lets curry things up a bit, shall we?
My Thai Massaman ingredient expenses
1 medium size carton - 23 baht
 8 pc. chicken or other protein - 40 baht
1/4 c fresh massaman curry paste - ~13 baht
1 potato - 10 baht/potato
1 large yellow onion - 10 baht 
1 4 pkg of fresh palm sugar 5 baht/~4 ounces (I only used 1/4 of the pkg) 
1 tamarind clump - 5 baht
 fish sauce (pre-bought)
sea salt (pre-bought)
1 toasted loaf of bread (optional) - 17 baht
1 small package of roasted peanuts - 10 baht (I used half)

Total cost: ~130 baht or $4.30, for 4-5 servings. This works out to be less than $1 per meal.  Also, I had several ingredients left over, of which I plan to make other curries and such.



 Fresh chicken, purchase the morning of food preparation. The chicken sold by weight and packed in plastic with ice.  After being brought home, I washed the chicken under cool water (I only have one temperature).
 
Soaking tamarind piece in water. The legume is soaked just long enough so that the pulpy flesh dissolves into the water.  Discard the fibrous remnants, as the juice is what's used.  Tamarind juice offers a great taste to the curry, at it is both sweet and tangy. It may look unpleasant but if you ever have the chance to try it, please do. It is a popular flavor for candies, desserts, and dishes all over the world. Tamarind isn't native to SE Asia.


 Ingredients pictured include: salt, unsalted roasted peanuts, palm sugar (white solid in the bag), bean paste (in the plastic bag), massaman curry spices (the red-brown liquid contents in the plastic bag), coconut milk, and fish sauce.
 First heat the coconut milk over the stove top. Most Thai kitchens have gas stoves, if any stove at all. As it start to simmer, add the curry spice.
 As the pot continues to a rolling boil, add the chicken and chunks of potato. Add 1 oz of sugar (taste to your liking), a dash of salt, tamarind juice, and the quartered medium-sized onion.  Cook until potato is tender. Add the peanuts at the very end.
 So my first cooking experience. A big success. I owe Chanphen a huge thanks, as she assisted me in the kitchen. I have had so many great Thai dishes, but this one ranks high.  I know that I will be bringing this recipe back with me.  The flavor was something I have never experience.  The great part about this dish is that you can be experimental with it.  I choose to make mine spicy, slightly tangy, creamy, and a little sweet.  The flavor is so satisfying and the roasted peanuts were a nice touch. Honestly, if I had this as left overs for a week, I'd be a pretty satisfied gal.

I am going to go ahead and add the recipe on here, though I am going to warn you, I eyeballed nearly everything. You can always message me with questions.
Thai Massaman Curry Recipe
Yield: 4-5 servings
1 carton of coconut milk
1/4 C Thai Massaman curry paste* (more of a sauce than a paste), adjust the heat to your liking
10 oz chicken or other protein of choice (beef, tofu, duck, etc)
1 large potato, cut into chunks
1 large yellow onion, cut into chunks
.5-1 oz palm sugar
1 dash sea salt
2 tsp fish sauce
3 ounces tamarind juice or adjust to your liking OR add 3-4 oz water to a tamarind pod to make your own juice. See picture above.
.5-1 oz bean paste
3 ounces roasted peanuts, unsalted
1 small loaf of toasted bread for dipping, optional 
(this dish may also be served with rice)

*Thai Massaman curry paste typically contains: cardamon, cinnamon, cloves, coriander, cumin, whole dried chilies, galangal, garlic (roasted), lemongrass (roasted), peppercorns, salt, shallots, shrimp paste, mace, nutmeg.  The paste is made through a series of steps, roasting and grinding the spices and herbs.  The paste typically keeps for one month if stored properly.
Directions
Heat the coconut over medium heat. As the pot begins to simmer, add the curry paste. Stir often. As the curry heats through add the protein, stir occasionally.  Add the potato, cook 5 minutes. Then add the sugar, salt, tamarind juice, bean paste, fish sauce. Allow the pot to cook until the potato is tender.  Add the peanuts once the potato is done. 

The dish may be served with toasted bread or rice. The meal can be kept in the fridge for several days.  You will notice that it may taste better on day two, as the flavors fuse into entire dish.
Variations and Ideas
You can buy curry pastes in many Asian food stores or grocers. An alternative to using coconut milk, and still getting the creamy flavor is either strained plain/Greek yogurt or soy milk. This would offer less calories and saturated fat.  If I made this again I would avoid adding the salt, as is already salt in the curry paste and fish sauce.  An alternative to fish sauce is soy sauce.  

I choose to make the authentic Thai curry with the help of a native Thai so that I could have a good baseline to run from. After making it I think I have gained lots of creative ideas.  For one, the next time I make this dish I think I will add more vegetables and cut the potato in to smaller pieces (perhaps add carrots/sweet potato).  As far as protein, I may try this with lean beef or chicken, or tofu. I would also try the final dish with some toasted whole grain bread, something that is rare to find in this white bread region. I am certain that this dish could be adapted to the crockpot as well, guaranteed to make your kitchen smell delicious.

Wednesday, May 22, 2013

Floating with Crabs

Cheers to the start of many Surat floating markets. A beautiful way to close in a Sunday night. It's about a 35-40 minutes walk from my place, or perhaps and 8 minutes ride.  It's quaint but great. I am finding that the best time to go, is right before sunset..rain or shine.  A beautiful scene with some friendly faces and good food along the Tipi River. I have previously blogged on this experience, but to me each trip has its own originality. As we make our way down the pier, please don't embarrass me, I plan to frequent this area on a weekly basis. Also, don't trip on the slippery, rough, metal incline, as there are no guard rails or safety signs.
 Turtle (pronounced Tao) soup? It may not be obvious in my snap, but let's just say that these buckets are more lively than you think.
2 Grocery Store Scenarios..
1) Ever have the problem where you go to the market or grocery store and come out with more than you needed? Ya, I don't think that happens here.  
2) Ever go to the market or grocery store and buy supper, but later discover it would be a nice pet? I don't know that that happens here, but it's certainly an option.
 Shrimp (pronounced goong in Thai), such a hideous looking creature. I have tried the well-known crustacean, a hanful of different species and I have to say, I don't understand the hype. I wouldn't say I hate it, but it doesn't do a whole lot for me.  The worst shrimp is the fishy-tasting ones or the ones that missed their bathroom break before supper.
 I haven't tried these yet, waiting on market walker to join me and my adventurous buds. In addition, I would like to learn a little about this dish, ie the type of fish and the preparation that goes along with it. I think it could pair well when I visit Nick's parents in Wisconsin. Don't you think it would be lovely at a family gathering with a nicely aged WI cheese platter? However, it should be noted that I don't recall ever having a 'cheese platter' in the state of Wisconsin. I have a had a slice or two at a table setting, but not what I would call a plater of 'queso.
 A variety of greens, herbs, and pea flower blossoms. Each is quite refreshing, especially with the right dish. Many are told to avoid eating unpeeled vegetables/produce or leafy greens (salads, etc), but I have been doing fine with them, no GI issues anyway.  I am hoping to add some sweet (Thai) basil to my potted garden in the near future.
A lovely bunch of coconuts. I'm telling you, a fresh, chilled coconut is hard to beat. Come visit an the nut is on me.

Monday, May 20, 2013

Penang Market Scene














Some seriously jacked up, jackfruit. The largest I have seen, yet.





Pickled and preserved Malay fruit







 
A bit of the China Town, market scene. I did try some dried meat in a local shop. The meat was sweet and extremely tender. I would compare it so a flat square of jerky, red color, with a sweet pork taste (not pictured).

 I may have snuck in the fish butchering market one afternoon. The building is nothing more than a large roofed, unenclosed shed. I quickly got the impression that they don't have many farang (or women for that matter) passing through.  The men were happy to talk with me and answer any of my questions.  Most of the fish hacking (calling it like it experienced it) is done in the early morning, after the first catch of the day. The floors are tiled and wet.   After job is done, the counters are flushed with water.  The atmosphere is every bit fishy and warm.












And that's a taste and a glimpse of Penang Market sightings.